Victoria Falls.

Where we sleep

1. Day 1 · Fri 16 Apr

   A bridge and a river

   We arrive, look at the bridge between two countries, and finish with a boat on the calm river above the falls.

   • Victoria Falls Bridge1 h 30

     An arched steel bridge over the Second Gorge, joining Zimbabwe and Zambia. It was built for Cecil Rhodes’s railway plans and sited where the falls’ spray would reach the trains.

     What to see

     • The arch from the viewpoint
     • The gorge below it
     • The cloud of spray in the distance

     Time

     About an hour and a half.

     Tip

     The bridge is a border crossing, so carry your passport and ask on the Zimbabwe side what you need to walk onto it. Do not hand your phone over the railings: the drop is a long one.

     To eat

     Roasted maize on the cob, sold at the roadside.

     Photos
   • Zambezi River cruise2 h

     The calm stretch of the river above the falls, where boats drift past islands, hippos and crocodiles. Elephants come to the banks to drink.

     What to see

     • Hippos and crocodiles from the water
     • Birds on the islands
     • Sunset over the river

     Time

     About two hours.

     Tip

     Go with a licensed operator, as the water is high and fast at this time of year. The area is a malaria zone, so ask your doctor about prevention before you travel.

     To eat

     Sadza with relish, the maize porridge that is Zimbabwe’s staple.

     Photos
2. Day 2 · Sat 17 Apr

   Getting properly wet

   A morning on the Zimbabwe-side path, from Devil’s Cataract to the Main Falls and Danger Point, in waterproofs. The umbrella stays in the bag.

   • Devil’s Cataract45 min

     The westernmost part of the falls, where the water plunges into a narrow gorge. A statue of David Livingstone stands nearby.

     What to see

     • The narrow plunge of the Cataract
     • The Livingstone statue
     • The view along the gorge

     Time

     Under an hour.

     Tip

     Walk from here to the east so the sun is behind you at the main viewpoints. Take your jacket out before the rainforest, not once you are soaked.

     To eat

     Biltong, dried spiced meat, to chew on the walk to the next viewpoint.

     Photos
   • Main Falls and the rainforest2 h

     The Zimbabwe-side path faces the falls across the gorge, through a rainforest watered by the spray. The falls are about 108 metres high and 1,708 metres wide.

     What to see

     • The Main Falls from the viewpoints
     • The rainforest inside the spray
     • The rainbow when the sun breaks through

     Time

     About two hours.

     Tip

     April is near peak flow, and the spray can hide the falls completely. Bring a waterproof jacket, a dry bag for the phone and a cloth for the camera lens. The path is wet and slippery.

     To eat

     Fresh seasonal fruit from a market stall.

     Photos
   • Danger Point45 min

     The viewpoint at the eastern end of the Zimbabwe path, at the edge of the gorge where the water has left the falls. It has no strong railings, as the name warns.

     What to see

     • The gorge below, where the Zambezi twists
     • The Victoria Falls Bridge in the distance
     • The eastern part of the falls

     Time

     Under an hour.

     Tip

     Stay well back from the edge, especially when the rock is wet. At high water the ground is slick, and a fall here has no second chance.

     To eat

     Roasted groundnuts, a common snack, to eat in the shade.

3. Day 3 · Sun 18 Apr

   Independence Day, in the bush

   Sunday 18 April is Zimbabwe’s Independence Day, and Monday is the day off in lieu. We spend the Sunday in Zambezi National Park, away from the busy town, and ask locally what is on.

   • Zambezi National ParkHalf a day

     A game park beside the Victoria Falls National Park, with a stretch of Zambezi river frontage upstream of the falls. Elephants, buffalo and antelope live in the bush.

     What to see

     • Elephants and buffalo on the plains
     • Antelope at the waterholes
     • Birds along the river

     Time

     A morning.

     Tip

     After the rains the grass is tall and animals are harder to spot, and some tracks can be muddy. Go with a guide or a registered operator, and bring repellent.

     To eat

     A packed breakfast of fruit, bread and tea for the bush.

4. Day 4 · Mon 19 Apr

   The other side

   The holiday Monday in Zimbabwe is a regular day in Zambia, so we cross the border to see the falls from the Zambian side.

   • Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park (Zambia)Whole day

     The Zambian side of the falls, in a park of about 66 square kilometres. Mosi-oa-Tunya is the Lozi name and means “the smoke that thunders”.

     What to see

     • The Eastern Cataract at full flow
     • The Knife-Edge Bridge close to the falls
     • A different angle on the gorge

     Time

     A full day.

     Tip

     The border and visa rules differ by passport, so check both countries’ immigration sites before you go. Monday is a public holiday in Zimbabwe only, so the Zambian side should run as normal.

     To eat

     Nshima with a relish of vegetables, Zambia’s version of the maize staple.

     Photos
5. Day 5 · Tue 20 Apr

   Dry-ish, going home

   A last stroll through town and the craft stalls, then the airport. Our clothes are still damp.

   • Victoria Falls town2 h

     A small town of low buildings a short walk from the falls, and the main base for visitors on the Zimbabwe side. Craft stalls sell wood carvings and stone sculptures.

     What to see

     • The wood and stone carvings
     • The streets near the falls
     • A last look at the spray on the horizon

     Time

     A relaxed morning.

     Tip

     Haggling is normal at the craft stalls. Ask each seller which currency they take, as US dollars and the local currency are both used.

     To eat

     A glass of fresh orange juice before the airport.

     Photos

Typical weather for these dates, not a forecast: the average of 2016–2025, with data from Open-Meteo.com (ERA5). The chance of rain is an estimate.