Sydney.

Where we sleep

1. Day 1 · Wed 29 Dec

   Say hello to the harbour

   An easy first day on foot: the old lanes of The Rocks, the Opera House and a garden that ends at the best view in town. Save your legs, Friday is a long one.

   • The Rocks2 h

     The oldest corner of European Sydney, where the colony grew up beside the harbour from 1788. Sandstone lanes, old pubs and the Harbour Bridge looming overhead.

     What to see

     • The sandstone lanes off George Street
     • The Harbour Bridge from underneath
     • Campbells Cove and the water

     Time

     Two hours without hurrying.

     Tip

     Come early in the morning, before the tour groups, for empty lanes and soft light on the sandstone.

     To eat

     A meat pie, Australia’s classic hand-held lunch.

     Photos
   • Sydney Opera House1.5 h

     Opened in 1973 to a design by Jørn Utzon, and a World Heritage site since 2007. You have seen the photo, which does not prepare you for walking underneath the roof.

     What to see

     • The tiled roof close up
     • The steps up to the forecourt
     • The promenade round Bennelong Point

     Time

     An hour and a half outside, more with a tour.

     Tip

     If you want a guided tour or a show, book on the official site ahead: late December is peak season.

     To eat

     A flat white from a kiosk on the quay, the way locals take their coffee.

     Photos
   • Royal Botanic Garden2 h

     Australia’s oldest botanic garden, founded in 1816 along the harbour shore and free to enter. The walk out to Mrs Macquarie’s Chair frames the Opera House and the bridge together.

     What to see

     • The harbour-edge path
     • Mrs Macquarie’s Chair and its view
     • The lawns and palm collection

     Time

     Two relaxed hours.

     Tip

     On 31 December parts of the garden become official fireworks viewing spots, so today is the easy day to see it.

     To eat

     A picnic from a deli: Australian summer fruit like mango and stone fruit is at its best.

     Photos
2. Day 2 · Thu 30 Dec

   Take the ferry, pretend it’s a cruise

   Across the harbour on the Manly ferry, then a walk over to a small cove with a lot of fish in it.

   • Manly4 h

     A beach suburb on the north side of the harbour, reached on the ferry from Circular Quay in about half an hour. The ride is half the point.

     What to see

     • The harbour from the ferry deck
     • The Corso, from the wharf to the ocean beach
     • Manly Beach

     Time

     A morning, with the ferry both ways.

     Tip

     The ferry is part of the public transport system, so tap on and off with a contactless card or an Opal card.

     To eat

     Fish and chips on the sand, eaten fast before the gulls notice.

     Photos
   • Shelly Beach2 h

     A small sheltered cove at the end of the shore path from Manly, inside a marine reserve, so the water is full of fish.

     What to see

     • Cabbage Tree Bay on the way over
     • Snorkelling off the beach
     • The headland behind the cove

     Time

     Two hours with a swim.

     Tip

     It is a no-fishing reserve, so bring a mask and leave the rod at home.

     To eat

     An ice cream on the way back along the bay, because you earned it.

     Photos
3. Day 3 · Fri 31 Dec

   The big night

   A quiet morning on a headland park, then an early place on the grass near the bridge. The fireworks go off at 9pm and again at midnight, so we get two goes at it.

   • Barangaroo Reserve1.5 h

     A headland park opened in 2015 on an old industrial shore, shaped like the coast before 1836 and planted with native species.

     What to see

     • The cut sandstone steps down to the water
     • The native plants of the harbour
     • The view over the water

     Time

     An hour and a half.

     Tip

     Walk the headland in the morning while it is empty: by evening it is an official fireworks spot and everyone has the same idea.

     To eat

     A bakery sausage roll for the road, plus a bottle of water for the evening.

     Photos
   • Dawes Point ParkEvening

     A small park at the foot of the Harbour Bridge and one of the free viewing points on the official New Year’s Eve list. The fireworks go off at 9pm and again at midnight.

     What to see

     • The bridge arching overhead
     • The harbour traffic building up through the evening
     • The 9pm show, then the midnight one

     Time

     Settle in early and stay to midnight.

     Tip

     Free spots can fill up, so go early with water and a layer, and agree a meeting point in case phones jam.

     To eat

     Picnic food that survives a crowd: sausage rolls and Anzac biscuits.

4. Day 4 · Sat 1 Jan

   Fresh air, slow start

   New Year’s Day by the sea: Bondi Beach, then the cliff path to Coogee. Whoever is feeling worst gets to choose the café.

   • Bondi Beach2 h

     Sydney’s best-known surf beach, a kilometre of sand with ocean baths cut into the rock at the south end. On New Year’s Day it is full.

     What to see

     • The surf from the sand
     • The ocean baths at the south end
     • Campbell Parade

     Time

     Two hours, longer if the sea is kind.

     Tip

     Swim only between the red and yellow flags, where the lifeguards watch, because rips are real.

     To eat

     Iced coffee, then an ice cream, in that order.

     Photos
   • Bondi to Coogee coastal walk3 h

     A cliff-top path of about 6 km from Bondi to Coogee, passing small beaches and ocean pools carved from the rock.

     What to see

     • Tamarama and Bronte beaches
     • Ocean pools cut into the rock
     • Coogee Beach at the end

     Time

     About three hours with stops.

     Tip

     The sun is harsh on the open cliffs in January: wear a hat and sunscreen, and carry water for the whole walk.

     To eat

     An iced coffee or an ice cream at Bronte, halfway.

     Photos
5. Day 5 · Sun 2 Jan

   Art, then home

   A calm last morning with a painting or two and a memorial in a park, before the flight.

   • Art Gallery of New South Wales2 h

     The state’s main art museum, in the park called the Domain, with free general entry. A calm place for the last morning.

     What to see

     • The Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander art
     • Australian painting
     • The park outside

     Time

     Two hours.

     Tip

     It opens at 10am daily, so on Sunday you can go first thing and still make an afternoon flight.

     To eat

     A last flat white and a slice of banana bread, a common café order here.

     Photos
   • Anzac Memorial45 min

     An Art Deco war memorial opened in 1934 at the south end of Hyde Park, with sculptures by Rayner Hoff and a long reflecting pool.

     What to see

     • The Art Deco building
     • The sculptures by Rayner Hoff
     • The Pool of Reflection

     Time

     Forty-five minutes.

     Tip

     Look at it from the north end of the pool, where the whole building lines up in the water.

     To eat

     Anzac biscuits from a bakery, oats and golden syrup, to take to the airport.

     Photos

Typical weather for these dates, not a forecast: the average of 2016–2025, with data from Open-Meteo.com (ERA5). The chance of rain is an estimate.