Seoul.

Where we sleep

1. Day 1 · Thu 7 Oct

   Stream and market

   An easy first day: a walk along the Cheonggyecheon stream, then dinner from the stalls of Gwangjang Market.

   • Cheonggyecheon stream1 h 30

     A stream that runs through the centre of Seoul, below street level. It spent decades under a road and an elevated highway, and was uncovered again in 2005.

     What to see

     • The start at Cheonggye Plaza and its spiral sculpture
     • The stepping stones across the water
     • The bridges, each different

     Time

     An hour and a half on the path.

     Tip

     The path lies below the road, so the traffic noise fades as you go. It is good at dusk, when the lights come on along the water.

     To eat

     Hotteok, a sweet pancake filled with brown sugar and nuts, from a street cart.

     Photos
   • Gwangjang Market1 h 30

     One of Seoul’s oldest traditional markets, opened in 1905, with long rows of food stalls under a roof. It is also known for fabric and hanbok stalls.

     What to see

     • Bindaetteok pancakes frying on griddles
     • The stall counters with shared stools
     • The fabric and hanbok corner

     Time

     An hour and a half, mostly eating.

     Tip

     Go hungry and order a couple of dishes to share. At dinner time the counters fill up, so take the first free stool you see.

     To eat

     Bindaetteok, a mung-bean pancake, mayak gimbap, and yukhoe, seasoned raw beef.

     Photos
2. Day 2 · Fri 8 Oct

   A palace and a village

   Gyeongbokgung in the morning, then the hanok lanes of Bukchon, which are open to day visitors only until 17:00.

   • Gyeongbokgung Palace2 h 30

     The first royal palace of the Joseon dynasty, established in 1395. Its throne hall was rebuilt in 1867, after being destroyed in 1592.

     What to see

     • The throne hall, Geunjeongjeon
     • The Gyeonghoeru pavilion on its pond
     • The changing of the royal guard at the gate

     Time

     About two and a half hours.

     Tip

     Visitors wearing a hanbok get in free, and rental shops are on the streets near the gate. Check the palace’s site for its weekly closing day before you go.

     To eat

     Sikhye, a sweet cold rice drink, and rice cakes (tteok).

     Photos
   • Bukchon Hanok Village1 h 30

     A residential area of traditional wooden houses, the hanok, north of Jongno, where about 6,100 people live. Since November 2024, visitors who are not staying at a local guesthouse may enter only from 10:00 to 17:00.

     What to see

     • The tiled roofs from the viewpoints on the hillside
     • The narrow lanes of Gahoe-dong
     • The cafés in converted hanoks

     Time

     An hour and a half, before 17:00.

     Tip

     People live here, so keep your voice down and stay out of gates and gardens. Seoul asks visitors to keep groups under ten.

     To eat

     Hanjeongsik, a table of many small Korean dishes, in a hanok.

     Photos
3. Day 3 · Sat 9 Oct

   Hangeul Day

   The day of the alphabet. We start at the King Sejong statue in Gwanghwamun Square, then cross the city to the National Hangeul Museum, which stays open late on Saturdays.

   • Gwanghwamun Square1 h 30

     A wide pedestrian square in front of Gyeongbokgung, enlarged in 2022. The seated bronze statue of King Sejong, the creator of the alphabet, was unveiled here on Hangeul Day 2009.

     What to see

     • The 6.2-metre statue of King Sejong
     • The statue of Admiral Yi Sun-sin and the 12.23 Fountain
     • The small exhibition hall beneath the statues

     Time

     An hour and a half.

     Tip

     The city has held a daytime Hangeul Day programme beside the statue, in 2026 from 11:00 to 16:00. The 2027 plan is published in the weeks before, so look at Seoul’s tourism site.

     To eat

     Bungeoppang, fish-shaped pastries filled with red bean, from a cart.

   • National Hangeul Museum2 h

     A museum next to the National Museum of Korea, devoted to the history and art of the Korean alphabet. Admission is free, and it opened on Hangeul Day 2014.

     What to see

     • The history of the alphabet in books and documents
     • Hangeul in design and art
     • The next-door National Museum of Korea, if you have energy left

     Time

     Two hours.

     Tip

     On Saturdays it stays open until 21:00, so there is no need to rush. Ichon station, line 4, exit 2, is the closest.

     To eat

     Yakgwa, a honey and ginger cookie, from a café nearby.

     Photos
4. Day 4 · Sun 10 Oct

   City views

   Up Namsan for the view over the city, then down to the curved silver building of Dongdaemun Design Plaza.

   • Namsan and N Seoul Tower3 h

     A wooded mountain park in the middle of the city, with the N Seoul Tower on top. The walk up has views, and parts of the old city wall run along the slope.

     What to see

     • The tower and the view over the city
     • The wooded paths up the slope
     • A stretch of the city wall

     Time

     Three hours with the walk.

     Tip

     Go up in the morning, when the air is clear and the paths are quieter. A cable car is the alternative to the climb.

     To eat

     Roasted chestnuts and sweet potatoes, the street snacks of cooler days.

     Photos
   • Dongdaemun Design Plaza1 h 30

     A curved, silver-clad building designed by Zaha Hadid, opened in 2014 in the Dongdaemun fashion district. It holds exhibitions and design markets.

     What to see

     • The curved metal walls from outside
     • The LED rose garden on the roof
     • The fashion malls around it

     Time

     An hour and a half.

     Tip

     Walking around the outside is free at any hour, but exhibitions are ticketed and change, so look at the schedule online first.

     To eat

     Tteokbokki, rice cakes in a spicy red sauce, from the stalls in the streets around.

     Photos
5. Day 5 · Mon 11 Oct

   Temple and brushes

   Because 9 October is a Saturday, Monday 11 should be a day off in lieu, as it was in 2021, so go early. Jogyesa temple, then Insadong for paper and calligraphy brushes before the trip home.

   • Jogyesa Temple1 h

     The chief temple of the Jogye Order of Korean Buddhism, in downtown Seoul near Insadong. Its main hall, built in 1938 with pine from Baekdu mountain, has fine lattice doors.

     What to see

     • The main hall, Daeungjeon, and its lattice doors
     • The old white pine in the courtyard
     • The lanterns and altars

     Time

     An hour.

     Tip

     It is a working temple, so dress modestly, speak quietly and take your shoes off before entering a hall.

     To eat

     Temple food, vegetarian dishes made with seasonal vegetables, in the lanes near Insadong.

     Photos
   • Insadong2 h

     A pedestrian street of craft shops, galleries and tea houses. It is the place to buy hanji, Korean mulberry paper, and calligraphy brushes.

     What to see

     • The stationery shops with brushes and ink
     • The galleries in the side lanes
     • The tea houses in old buildings

     Time

     Two hours of browsing.

     Tip

     Buy a set of hangeul practice paper or a brush here, and compare prices on the side lanes, where shops are often cheaper than on the main street.

     To eat

     Traditional teas, such as jujube or omija, served in a tea house.

     Photos

Typical weather for these dates, not a forecast: the average of 2016–2025, with data from Open-Meteo.com (ERA5). The chance of rain is an estimate.