Santiago.

Where we sleep

1. Day 1 · Thu 16 Sept

   Landing in the centre

   We settle in and take a first walk to the old square, then to the fish market for a look at the biggest fish the children have ever seen.

   • Plaza de Armas1 h 30

     The square where Santiago grew from, laid out after the city’s founding in 1541. The cathedral and the old post office face onto it.

     What to see

     • The cathedral
     • The old post office building
     • Chess players and street artists under the palms

     Time

     About an hour and a half.

     Tip

     It is a busy square, so agree a meeting point with the children before you go in, and keep bags zipped and in front of you.

     To eat

     Empanada de pino, baked with beef, onion, raisin, olive and egg.

     Photos
   • Central Market1 h

     A fish and seafood market under an iron roof, opened in 1872. The children will love the piles of fish, and the grown-ups the smell of lunch.

     What to see

     • The iron roof and its clock
     • The fish stalls
     • The fruit and vegetable stands next door

     Time

     An hour.

     Tip

     Waiters at the door will try hard to seat you. You can say no and keep walking, and look at the menu before you sit.

     To eat

     Caldillo de congrio, the conger-eel soup Pablo Neruda wrote an ode to.

     Photos
2. Day 2 · Fri 17 Sept

   Hill, then palace

   A holiday Friday: a climb up the hill where Santiago was founded, then a look at the government palace from the plaza.

   • Santa Lucía Hill1 h 30

     A small hill of stairs, terraces and fountains in the middle of the city, where Pedro de Valdivia founded Santiago in 1541. It has a small fort for the children to climb.

     What to see

     • The Castillo Hidalgo
     • The terraces and fountains
     • The view towards the Andes from the top

     Time

     An hour and a half with little legs.

     Tip

     There are many steps, so bring water and let the children set the pace. A clear morning gives the best view of the mountains.

     To eat

     A bag of fresh fruit to carry up the hill.

     Photos
   • La Moneda Palace45 min

     The government seat of Chile. It was built as the national mint and finished in 1805, and became the presidential palace in the 1840s.

     What to see

     • The neoclassical front from the plaza
     • The flag flying over the courtyard
     • The wide Alameda avenue

     Time

     A short stop.

     Tip

     The palace is a working government building, so we see it from the outside. If you want to go in, ask on the presidency’s website about visits, which need booking.

     To eat

     Sopaipillas, round fried pumpkin dough, a classic street snack on a cool day.

     Photos
3. Day 3 · Sat 18 Sept

   Flags everywhere

   The 18th itself. We go up San Cristóbal hill in the morning, then spend the afternoon at the park for a fonda, empanadas, a cueca and a kite.

   • San Cristóbal Hill3 h

     The hill in the Parque Metropolitano, about 880 metres above sea level, topped by a 14-metre statue of the Virgin Mary. It gives the widest view of Santiago and the Andes.

     What to see

     • The statue of the Virgin Mary
     • The city and the Andes from the top
     • The park’s shaded paths

     Time

     About three hours.

     Tip

     The funicular and the cable car are the fun way up, but check on the park’s site which ones are running that day. Go in the morning, when the air is clearest.

     To eat

     Mote con huesillo, a sweet drink of peach and husked wheat, from the stalls at the foot of the hill.

     Photos
   • O’Higgins ParkAfternoons

     Santiago’s big city park, where the military parade is held on the elipse every 19 September. In the festival days it has hosted one of the city’s large fondas, the open-air venues with food, music and dance.

     What to see

     • The Parada Militar on 19 September
     • Families dancing the cueca
     • Kites against the sky

     Time

     A long afternoon on the 18th, a morning on the 19th.

     Tip

     Look up this year’s list of fondas on the city’s official site, since some are in parks and others are private. The parade is a state ceremony, so check the Army’s website for how the public can watch.

     To eat

     Anticuchos, small skewers of grilled meat, and a choripán.

4. Day 4 · Sun 19 Sept

   The parade day

   The 19th is the Day of the Army, with the Parada Militar at the same park. In the afternoon we walk off the day in Lastarria.

   • O’Higgins ParkGuide on day 3 →
   • Lastarria district2 h

     A small district at the foot of Santa Lucía hill with cafés, bookshops and little squares. Its Plaza Mulato Gil de Castro is the heart of it.

     What to see

     • Plaza Mulato Gil de Castro
     • Streets lined with cafés and bookshops
     • The stairs up to Santa Lucía hill

     Time

     An easy afternoon.

     Tip

     It is walkable and flat, so a good place to unwind after the parade. Let the children choose where to stop for a snack.

     To eat

     Alfajores, two biscuits with dulce de leche, and a hot chocolate.

     Photos
5. Day 5 · Mon 20 Sept

   To the sea

   An early bus to Valparaíso. The port square in the morning, then the steep hills of Cerro Alegre and Cerro Concepción in the afternoon.

   • Plaza Sotomayor1 h 30

     The square beside Valparaíso’s port, with the Monument to the Heroes of Iquique and the grand navy headquarters. Ferries and cranes work just beyond it.

     What to see

     • The Monument to the Heroes of Iquique
     • The navy headquarters building
     • The port and its ships

     Time

     About an hour and a half.

     Tip

     Buses from Santiago take about two hours, so leave early. Pay attention to your bags while you wait for the bus in the terminal.

     To eat

     Chorrillana, a plate of chips piled with beef and fried onion, Valparaíso’s own dish.

     Photos
   • Cerro Alegre and Cerro Concepción3 h

     Two neighbouring hills with steep lanes, coloured houses and street murals. They are part of the historic quarter of Valparaíso, listed by UNESCO in 2003.

     What to see

     • Paseo Gervasoni and its lookout
     • The murals on the staircases
     • The bay from the top of the hills

     Time

     A slow afternoon.

     Tip

     The funiculars are the classic way up, but several have been out of service. Check which ones work that day, or climb by the stairs, which the children will like.

     To eat

     Empanadas de queso with a squeeze of lemon.

6. Day 6 · Tue 21 Sept

   A poet’s house

   A last morning at Pablo Neruda’s house above the bay, then the bus back to Santiago and the flight home.

   • La Sebastiana1 h 30

     The tall house on the hill that the poet Pablo Neruda lived in at Valparaíso, with views over the bay. It is one of his three houses in Chile.

     What to see

     • The rooms with Neruda’s collections
     • The view over the bay from the upper floors
     • The garden

     Time

     About an hour and a half.

     Tip

     It has been closed on Mondays in the past, which is why we go on Tuesday. Check the Neruda Foundation’s website for the day’s hours before you climb.

     To eat

     Pastel de choclo, a baked corn and beef pie, if you have time for lunch.

Typical weather for these dates, not a forecast: the average of 2016–2025, with data from Open-Meteo.com (ERA5). The chance of rain is an estimate.