Luxor · onenicetrip

The reason we’re here

Monday 22 February 2027, at sunrise

Abu Simbel Sun Festival

Great Temple of Ramesses II, Abu Simbel

At sunrise the sun’s rays travel along the temple’s axis into the inner sanctuary and light the statues of Ramesses II and two gods for about twenty minutes. Hundreds of visitors gather, and some stay overnight in the town. Entry arrangements and exact times are set by the authorities each year, so confirm with your operator.

Every year on 22 February (and on 22 October). Source ↗

The plan

Six days: the temples of Luxor, the road south to Aswan, and one very early morning at Abu Simbel.

Where we sleep

2 nights

Base in Luxor

East bank, Luxor

3 nights

Base in Aswan

Corniche, Aswan

Day 1 · Fri 19 Feb
The east bank
Karnak in the morning, when it is quieter, and Luxor Temple in the evening, when it is lit. These were the temples of the living city.
- Karnak Temple3 h
  The largest temple complex in Egypt, built and added to by many pharaohs over about two thousand years for the god Amun. Walking through it is a walk through those centuries.
  What to see
  - The Great Hypostyle Hall and its 134 columns
  - The obelisks of Hatshepsut and Thutmose I
  - The Sacred Lake
  Time
  Three hours, at an easy pace.
  Tip
  Go to the Hypostyle Hall first, before the tour buses arrive, then work backwards towards the entrance. The sun is low and the light is better early.
  To eat
  Ful medames with bread and ta’amiya, the Egyptian version of falafel made with fava beans.
- Luxor Temple1 h 30
  A temple on the riverbank built mostly under Amenhotep III and Ramesses II, still in the middle of the modern town. A mosque built into the temple is still in use.
  What to see
  - The pylon and the single obelisk
  - The colonnade of Amenhotep III
  - The temple lit up after dark
  Time
  About an hour and a half.
  Tip
  Arrive about an hour before sunset. You see the stone in daylight, then watch the floodlights come on. The second obelisk stands in Paris.
  To eat
  Hamam mahshi, pigeon stuffed with rice or freekeh, a classic of Upper Egypt.
Day 2 · Sat 20 Feb
The west bank
Across the river, where the pharaohs were buried: the Valley of the Kings, Hatshepsut’s terraced temple and the two giant statues on the road back.
- Valley of the Kings2 h 30
  A dry valley in the hills of the west bank where the pharaohs of the New Kingdom were buried in rock-cut tombs. The painted walls inside are the reason to come.
  What to see
  - Painted burial chambers
  - Hieroglyphs still in colour
  - The view of the valley from the entrance
  Time
  Two to three hours.
  Tip
  Only some tombs are open at any time and they change, and a few famous ones sell separate tickets. Check at the ticket office, and note that photography inside is restricted.
  To eat
  Pack water and a snack; there is little to buy inside the valley. Eat afterwards on the west bank.
- Temple of Hatshepsut1 h 30
  A terraced mortuary temple for Queen Hatshepsut, set against a cliff at Deir el-Bahari. The long ramps and colonnades make it one of the most striking buildings on the west bank.
  What to see
  - The three terraces
  - Reliefs of the expedition to Punt
  - The cliffs rising behind it
  Time
  About an hour and a half.
  Tip
  There is a walk from the entrance to the temple, and no shade on the terraces. Bring a hat and water, even in February.
  To eat
  Mint tea or karkadeh, the cold hibiscus drink, at a café by the car park.
- Colossi of Memnon30 min
  Two huge seated statues of Amenhotep III, standing on the plain of the west bank. They are all that remains above ground of his funerary temple.
  What to see
  - The two statues, about 18 metres high
  - The weathered seated figures
  - The fields around them
  Time
  A short stop.
  Tip
  You can see them from the road, so this is a good last stop on the way back to the ferry or bridge, and there is no need to plan around it.
  To eat
  A cold drink and some peanuts from a stall by the car park.
Day 3 · Sun 21 Feb
South to Aswan
A day on the road, with two Ptolemaic temples on the way. We aim to be in Aswan before dark and go to bed early for tomorrow’s start.
- Temple of Horus at Edfu1 h 30
  A temple of the falcon god Horus, begun in 237 BCE under the Ptolemies and one of the best-preserved in Egypt. Its walls and roofed halls are almost intact.
  What to see
  - The huge pylon with relief carvings
  - The courtyard of columns
  - The granite falcon statue at the entrance
  Time
  About an hour and a half.
  Tip
  Edfu sits roughly halfway between Luxor and Aswan, so leave Luxor in the morning to reach it before the tours do and keep time for Kom Ombo.
  To eat
  Fresh bread, white cheese and tomatoes bought in the town, for a picnic on the road.
- Temple of Kom Ombo1 h
  A Ptolemaic temple on a bend of the Nile, unusual because it is double, with one half for the crocodile god Sobek and one for Horus the Elder. The two halves mirror each other.
  What to see
  - The twin sanctuaries
  - The Crocodile Museum next door
  - The view over the Nile from the terrace
  Time
  About an hour.
  Tip
  Try to arrive late in the afternoon, when the stone turns golden and the heat is gone. Kom Ombo is about 45 km north of Aswan, so you still reach the city in good time.
  To eat
  Sugarcane juice again: the fields around Kom Ombo are full of cane.
Day 4 · Mon 22 Feb
The sun festival
We leave Aswan in the middle of the night to reach Abu Simbel before sunrise on 22 February, when light enters the Great Temple. Then we see the Small Temple and return to Aswan.
- Great Temple of Abu SimbelDawn to late morning
  A temple cut into the rock for Ramesses II in the thirteenth century BCE, with four seated colossi at the front. It was moved, block by block, to higher ground in the 1960s when Lake Nasser rose.
  What to see
  - The four colossi of Ramesses II
  - The sanctuary about 60 metres inside
  - The sunlight reaching the statues at dawn
  Time
  Arrive well before sunrise.
  Tip
  The road from Aswan takes about three to four hours, so most people leave in the middle of the night, and flights also run. Book transport and the festival ticket early. Cloud or crowds can limit the view, and the sanctuary is entered in turns.
  To eat
  Take bread, dates and water for the road, because you leave long before anything opens in the town.
- Temple of Nefertari45 min
  The Small Temple, dedicated to the goddess Hathor and to Ramesses’s queen Nefertari, stands a short walk from the Great Temple. It is unusual to see a queen shown at the same size as the king on a facade.
  What to see
  - Six standing statues on the facade
  - Hathor columns in the hall
  - The lake behind the temples
  Time
  Under an hour.
  Tip
  After the dawn crowd at the Great Temple, this one is quiet. Walk round behind both temples to see how they were reassembled against an artificial hill.
  To eat
  Back in Aswan, a late lunch of grilled fish from the Nile or Lake Nasser, where fish is common.
Day 5 · Tue 23 Feb
An island and a river
A boat to the temple of Isis at Philae, then the ferry to Elephantine Island and its Nubian villages. A slower day after yesterday.
- Philae Temple2 h
  The temple of the goddess Isis, moved to Agilkia Island in the 1970s when its first island was flooded. You reach it by a short boat ride.
  What to see
  - The boat ride across the water
  - The first pylon and the temple of Isis
  - Trajan’s Kiosk by the shore
  Time
  About two hours.
  Tip
  The boats leave from a landing south of the city; agree the price for the round trip before setting off. Go in the morning for softer light and fewer visitors.
  To eat
  Karkadeh and fresh bread on the quay, once back from the island.
- Elephantine Island2 h
  A long island in the Nile opposite Aswan, with a Nubian village, ancient ruins and a Nilometer for measuring the river’s floods. A ferry from the Corniche crosses in a few minutes.
  What to see
  - The Nubian houses painted in bright colours
  - The Nilometer
  - The ruins of the ancient town
  Time
  Two relaxed hours.
  Tip
  The lanes are narrow and the village is lived in, so ask before photographing people or their doorways. A felucca ride around the island at the end of the day is a good way to see it from the water.
  To eat
  Tea at one of the small cafés in the village, after the walk.
Day 6 · Wed 24 Feb
The market, then home
A last walk through Aswan’s market street for spices and tea before the journey home.
- Aswan souq2 h
  A long market street running parallel to the Nile, famous for spices, tea and hibiscus. It is a local shopping street as much as a tourist one.
  What to see
  - Spice sacks and dried hibiscus
  - Nubian baskets and scarves
  - The Corniche just behind
  Time
  Two hours, with stops.
  Tip
  Karkadeh and spice mixes keep well and weigh little, so buy those last, and check the sealed bags before you pay.
  To eat
  Ta’amiya sandwiches, then dates for the journey home.