Istanbul.

Where we sleep

1. Day 1 · Wed 27 Oct

   Sultanahmet

   The historic core of the city: Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque and the old Hippodrome between them. We keep this to a weekday, before the holiday.

   • Hagia Sophia1 h 30

     Built as a church between 532 and 537 under Emperor Justinian, it became a mosque after 1453 and has served as one again since 2020. Its huge dome is still the reason people come.

     What to see

     • The central dome
     • The Byzantine mosaics
     • The Ottoman calligraphy discs

     Time

     About an hour and a half.

     Tip

     It’s a working mosque, so visits pause at prayer times, and the rules for foreign visitors have changed in recent years. Read the official visitor information before you go, and cover shoulders and knees.

     To eat

     A simit, the sesame bread ring, from a street cart, and a tulip glass of çay.

     Photos
   • Blue Mosque45 min

     The Sultan Ahmed Mosque was built between 1609 and 1616 and is known for its six minarets and the blue İznik tiles inside.

     What to see

     • The six minarets
     • The blue tiles under the dome
     • The courtyard

     Time

     Forty-five minutes.

     Tip

     The mosque closes to visitors during the five daily prayers, so check the prayer times for the day and take off your shoes at the entrance.

     To eat

     Roasted chestnuts from a street stall, an autumn habit in the city.

     Photos
   • Hippodrome30 min

     The long open square of Sultanahmet follows the outline of the Roman and Byzantine Hippodrome, once the city’s chariot-racing track. A few monuments from that time still stand there.

     What to see

     • The Obelisk of Theodosius
     • The Serpent Column
     • The German Fountain

     Time

     Half an hour.

     Tip

     The square is free and always open, and it is easiest to enjoy once the mosque visits are done.

     To eat

     Turkish delight, lokum, in a rose or pistachio flavour.

     Photos
2. Day 2 · Thu 28 Oct

   Palace and mosque

   Topkapı Palace first thing, because 28 October is the half-day before Republic Day. Then the Süleymaniye Mosque on the hill above the Golden Horn.

   • Topkapı Palace3 h

     The home of the Ottoman sultans from the 15th century until the mid-19th, built on a headland above the Bosphorus and the Golden Horn. It is a set of courtyards, pavilions and terraces rather than a single building.

     What to see

     • The Harem
     • The Imperial Treasury
     • The terraces over the Bosphorus

     Time

     Three hours.

     Tip

     The palace is closed on Tuesdays. On 28 October go straight after opening, since holiday hours can be shorter, and check the Ministry of Culture’s museum site first.

     To eat

     Menemen, scrambled eggs with tomato and pepper, for a late breakfast.

     Photos
   • Süleymaniye Mosque1 h 30

     Built between 1550 and 1557 for Süleyman the Magnificent by the architect Sinan, it stands on one of the city’s hills above the Golden Horn. The tombs of Süleyman and his wife Hürrem lie in its grounds.

     What to see

     • The main prayer hall
     • The tombs of Süleyman and Hürrem
     • The view over the Golden Horn

     Time

     About an hour and a half.

     Tip

     Like every working mosque, it closes to visitors at prayer times. Take off your shoes, cover your shoulders and knees, and keep your voice low.

     To eat

     Kuru fasulye, white beans in tomato sauce, a classic neighbourhood lunch.

     Photos
3. Day 3 · Fri 29 Oct

   Republic Day

   A national holiday. We spend the day on the Beyoğlu side: the Republic Monument in Taksim, Galata Tower and then a ferry on the Bosphorus for the evening, when fireworks have traditionally been held over the water.

   • Republic Monument, Taksim45 min

     The Republic Monument in Taksim Square was unveiled in 1928 and was made by the Italian sculptor Pietro Canonica. On 29 October, ceremonies and wreath-laying have traditionally been held here.

     What to see

     • The monument and its sculpted figures
     • The flags across the square
     • The start of Istiklal Avenue

     Time

     Under an hour.

     Tip

     In past years roads around the main celebrations have been closed on the 29th, so arrive by Metro to Taksim station and plan to walk the last stretch.

     To eat

     A balık ekmek, grilled fish in bread, is for later at the waterfront.

   • Galata Tower1 h 30

     A stone tower built by the Genoese in 1348 on the hill above the Golden Horn. The viewing level gives a wide view of the old city, the Golden Horn and the Bosphorus.

     What to see

     • The view from the top
     • The streets of Galata below
     • The old city across the Golden Horn

     Time

     Plan for queues.

     Tip

     The tower can be busy and holiday hours may differ, so check the opening times for the 29th, and use the first slot of the day.

     To eat

     Turkish coffee, brewed in a small pot, in the lanes around the tower.

     Photos
   • Bosphorus ferryEvening

     Public ferries link Eminönü and Karaköy with Kadıköy and Üsküdar on the Asian shore, and others run up the Bosphorus. Locals use them as ordinary transport, and they are one of the best views of the city.

     What to see

     • The skyline of the old city from the water
     • The two shores of the Bosphorus
     • The gulls following the boat

     Time

     An evening.

     Tip

     Fireworks over the Bosphorus are usual on Republic Day evening, but the city announces viewing spots shortly before. Pick a place on the waterfront early.

     To eat

     Balık ekmek, a grilled fish sandwich, by the water at Eminönü.

4. Day 4 · Sat 30 Oct

   The bazaars

   The Grand Bazaar is closed on Sundays and public holidays, so Saturday is the day. We end at the Spice Bazaar by the water.

   • Grand Bazaar2 h

     One of the oldest and largest covered markets in the world, a maze of more than sixty covered streets selling jewellery, ceramics, textiles and lamps.

     What to see

     • The vaulted main streets
     • The ceramics and lamp shops
     • The old inner courtyards

     Time

     Two hours, or until you are lost.

     Tip

     It is closed on Sundays and public holidays, which is why it is on Saturday. Prices are negotiable, and it helps to look at a few shops before buying.

     To eat

     Pide, Turkish flatbread with cheese or meat, and a glass of tea.

   • Spice Bazaar1 h

     A 17th-century covered market beside the New Mosque at Eminönü, full of spices, tea, dried fruit and sweets.

     What to see

     • The piles of spices and dried fruit
     • The lokum and baklava counters
     • The New Mosque next door

     Time

     About an hour.

     Tip

     Ask to taste before buying, and compare the same spice in two or three shops, as quality varies from stall to stall.

     To eat

     Baklava with pistachio and a Turkish coffee.

5. Day 5 · Sun 31 Oct

   Across to Asia

   A last morning on the Asian shore: the Kadıköy market, then a walk along the sea in Moda before leaving.

   • Kadıköy Market1 h 30

     The food market of Kadıköy, on the Asian side, with fish, cheese, pickles and sweets, in lanes where locals do their daily shopping.

     What to see

     • The fish stalls
     • The cheese and olive counters
     • The pickle shops

     Time

     An hour and a half.

     Tip

     Take the ferry from Karaköy or Eminönü to Kadıköy, about twenty minutes, instead of crossing by road.

     To eat

     Midye dolma, mussels stuffed with spiced rice, from a street stall.

   • Moda seafront1 h

     A residential neighbourhood on the sea, with a park and a promenade above the water, a short walk from Kadıköy’s centre. The mood is much quieter than in the old city.

     What to see

     • The promenade over the sea
     • The view back to the old city
     • The tree-lined streets of Moda

     Time

     An hour.

     Tip

     Leave enough time to get back to the ferry or Metro and on to the airport, as the crossing and traffic on the Asian side can be slow.

     To eat

     Dondurma, Turkish stretchy ice cream, by the sea.

Typical weather for these dates, not a forecast: the average of 2016–2025, with data from Open-Meteo.com (ERA5). The chance of rain is an estimate.