Fiji.

Where we sleep

1. Day 1 · Fri 8 Oct

   Temple, then dunes

   A colourful Hindu temple in Nadi in the morning, then a drive down the coast to a park of sand dunes, in time for the cooler end of the afternoon.

   • Sri Siva Subramaniya Temple1.5 h

     A Dravidian-style Hindu temple in the middle of Nadi, often called the largest in the Southern Hemisphere. Its pyramid towers are covered in carvings and painted gods.

     What to see

     • The pyramid towers
     • The painted figures of Hindu gods
     • The shrines to Shiva and Ganesh

     Time

     About an hour and a half.

     Tip

     Cover your shoulders and legs, and take your shoes off before going in. Photography isn’t allowed inside the temple itself.

     To eat

     Visitors are asked not to enter after eating meat that day, so keep breakfast vegetarian and have a veg curry after.

     Photos
   • Sigatoka Sand Dunes National Park2 h

     A park of sand dunes and dry forest on the Coral Coast. It holds a burial site of more than 50 people about 2,600 years old, linked to the early Lapita people.

     What to see

     • The dunes at the river mouth
     • The visitor centre
     • The forest trail

     Time

     One hour on the short trail, two on the long one.

     Tip

     The park is open daily from 8am to 4.30pm, with a break from 1 to 2pm. Avoid walking between 1 and 3pm, the hottest hours.

     To eat

     Fresh coconut water from a roadside seller on the way.

     Photos
2. Day 2 · Sat 9 Oct

   The long road to Suva

   An early start for the drive across the island to the capital, around four hours. Saturday is market day, and the national museum stays open all afternoon.

   • Suva Municipal Market1.5 h

     Suva’s big market, where fruit, vegetables, fish and kava root are sold. It is the quickest way to see what people here actually eat.

     What to see

     • The fruit and vegetable stalls
     • The fish section
     • The kava sellers upstairs

     Time

     About an hour and a half.

     Tip

     Kava, called yaqona here, is sold on the upper floor. Saturday is the busiest day, so hold on to your bag.

     To eat

     Papaya, pineapple and fresh coconut, bought by the bag.

   • Fiji Museum2 h

     The national museum, founded in 1904 and set in Thurston Gardens. Its centrepiece is Ratu Finau, a 13-metre double-hulled canoe.

     What to see

     • The Ratu Finau canoe
     • The rudder of HMS Bounty
     • The Lapita and maritime galleries

     Time

     Two hours.

     Tip

     It is open every day from 9am to 4.30pm, including public holidays, so Saturday afternoon works fine.

     To eat

     Roti and curry in town, the Indo-Fijian lunch.

3. Day 3 · Sun 10 Oct

   Happy birthday, Fiji

   Fiji Day itself falls on a Sunday this year. We go to the parade at Albert Park in the morning, then walk it off in the botanical garden next door.

   • Albert ParkMorning

     The big park in central Suva where Fiji’s national celebrations are held on 10 October. Recent editions had a parade by the military, police and navy, followed by a 21-gun salute.

     What to see

     • The parade
     • The 21-gun salute
     • The market stalls and music around the park

     Time

     The morning.

     Tip

     In 2027 Fiji Day is a Sunday and the programme isn’t out yet, so ask at your base for the day and time of the parade. Recent parades were in the morning.

     To eat

     Whatever the stalls around the park are selling: fruit and fresh coconut.

     Photos
   • Thurston Gardens1.5 h

     Suva’s main botanical garden, opened in 1913 beside Albert Park. It has a clock tower and bandstand built in 1918.

     What to see

     • The clock tower and bandstand
     • The Pacific plants
     • The shade

     Time

     An hour and a half.

     Tip

     It rains a lot in Suva, so keep this stop flexible: if it pours, the Fiji Museum next door is dry.

     To eat

     A cold coconut, drunk in the shade.

4. Day 4 · Mon 11 Oct

   Rain, but on purpose

   A day in a rainforest park of waterfalls and swimming pools. We’re getting wet either way.

   • Colo-i-Suva Forest ParkHalf a day

     A rainforest park just north of Suva with waterfalls, natural swimming pools and walking trails. It is open every day, public holidays included.

     What to see

     • The natural pools
     • The waterfalls
     • The forest trails

     Time

     Half a day, with a swim.

     Tip

     The trails turn slippery after rain, so wear shoes with grip and bring a towel and a dry shirt.

     To eat

     Pack lunch and water; it is not a place to find a restaurant.

5. Day 5 · Tue 12 Oct

   A last walk

   One easy stroll along the harbour in the centre of Suva before heading home.

   • Sukuna Park1 h

     A park in Suva’s business district, next to the harbour, that hosts regular performances and events.

     What to see

     • The harbour
     • Any performance on that day
     • The city centre around it

     Time

     An hour.

     Tip

     Leave your bags at the hotel and walk here on the last morning: it is in the centre, so you can still catch your transfer.

     To eat

     A last roti in the centre, then the road home.

Typical weather for these dates, not a forecast: the average of 2016–2025, with data from Open-Meteo.com (ERA5). The chance of rain is an estimate.