Delhi.

Where we sleep

1. Day 1 · Mon 24 Jan

   Tombs and gardens

   A gentle start in the sun: the first garden-tomb of the Mughal age, then a park of 15th-century tombs.

   • Humayun’s Tomb2 h

     Built from 1565 to 1572 by Humayun’s widow, Bega Begum, and designed by the Persian architect Mirak Mirza Ghiyas. It was the first garden-tomb on the subcontinent.

     What to see

     • The tomb in red sandstone and white marble
     • The charbagh garden with its water channels
     • The tomb of Isa Khan on the approach

     Time

     About two hours.

     Tip

     Start in the morning, when the sun lights the sandstone and the garden is quiet. Winter fog can make the first hour pale and cold.

     To eat

     Seekh kebab, spiced minced meat grilled on a skewer, in the Nizamuddin lanes.

     Photos
   • Lodhi Garden1.5 h

     A 90-acre park with tombs of the Sayyid and Lodi dynasties, from the 15th and 16th centuries. It lies between Khan Market and Safdarjung’s Tomb.

     What to see

     • The tomb of Sikandar Lodi
     • The Bara Gumbad and its mosque
     • The Shish Gumbad

     Time

     About an hour and a half.

     Tip

     It is a popular place for walks, so go in the late afternoon, when the stone turns golden and Delhi residents come out to stroll.

     To eat

     Masala chai and chole bhature, chickpea curry with fried bread.

     Photos
2. Day 2 · Tue 25 Jan

   Old Delhi

   The great mosque of Shah Jahan in the morning, then a slow walk through the market lanes of Chandni Chowk.

   • Jama Masjid1.5 h

     The great mosque of Shah Jahan, inaugurated in 1656 and built of red sandstone and white marble. Its courtyard holds about 25,000 people.

     What to see

     • The huge courtyard
     • The two minarets, about 41 metres tall
     • The marble pool for washing

     Time

     About an hour and a half.

     Tip

     It is still a working mosque. Cover shoulders and knees, be ready to take off your shoes, and visit outside prayer times.

     To eat

     Nihari, a slow-cooked meat stew, with sheermal, a lightly sweet flatbread.

     Photos
   • Chandni Chowk3 h

     The main market street of Old Delhi, planned in 1650 by Shah Jahan’s daughter Jahanara Begum. Its name means Moonlight Square.

     What to see

     • The clock tower in the middle
     • Paranthe Wali Gali, the lane of fried breads
     • Khari Baoli, the spice market

     Time

     About three hours.

     Tip

     Walk with your bag in front, bring small notes, and take a cycle rickshaw when the crowds slow you. The side lanes are narrow, so move with the traffic.

     To eat

     Stuffed parathas, jalebi and chaat, the lanes’ classic order.

     Photos
3. Day 3 · Wed 26 Jan

   Republic Day

   The parade on Kartavya Path starts the day, and the afternoon is a quiet one at a Sikh gurdwara, which offers a free meal to anyone.

   • Kartavya Path (Republic Day parade)Morning

     The boulevard, once called Rajpath, that runs from Rashtrapati Bhavan on Raisina Hill through India Gate. The Republic Day parade takes place here every 26 January.

     What to see

     • The President taking the salute
     • The army, navy and air force contingents
     • The Air Force flypast that closes the parade

     Time

     The whole morning.

     Tip

     Seats are sold through the Ministry of Defence’s Aamantran portal, in recent years from early January, and they sell out quickly. Bring the original photo ID used for booking.

     To eat

     A hot breakfast of poha, flattened rice with peanuts, before the early start.

   • Gurdwara Bangla Sahib1.5 h

     A Sikh temple near Connaught Place with a golden dome. It is named after the bungalow where Guru Har Krishan stayed, and it has a sacred pool, the sarovar, over the bungalow’s old well.

     What to see

     • The golden dome and flagpole
     • The sarovar, the sacred pool
     • The kitchen that feeds the visitors

     Time

     About an hour and a half.

     Tip

     Everyone covers their head and takes off their shoes before going in. Scarves are usually at the entrance, and the free meal, the langar, is open to all.

     To eat

     Dal and roti, the simple langar meal.

     Photos
4. Day 4 · Thu 27 Jan

   A day in Agra

   Thursday is the day for Agra, as the Taj Mahal is closed on Fridays. A fast morning train from Delhi, then the Taj and the red fort, and the train back.

   • Taj Mahal3 h

     The mausoleum Shah Jahan commissioned in 1631 for his wife Mumtaz Mahal, finished in 1648 with the rest of the complex done by 1653. It was listed by UNESCO in 1983.

     What to see

     • The white marble mausoleum
     • The gardens and long pools
     • The view across the Yamuna River

     Time

     About three hours.

     Tip

     The Taj is closed on Fridays and opens about an hour before sunrise. January mornings are often foggy, so the first view may be hazy.

     To eat

     Petha, Agra’s translucent sweet made from ash gourd.

     Photos
   • Agra Fort2 h

     The red sandstone fort Akbar rebuilt between 1565 and 1573, about 2.5 kilometres north-west of the Taj. Shah Jahan, confined here by his son Aurangzeb, died in 1666.

     What to see

     • The Diwan-i-Am, the hall of public audience
     • The Musamman Burj, the marble tower
     • The view of the Taj from the fort

     Time

     About two hours.

     Tip

     Part of the fort is still under the army and closed to visitors. Book your train back with a good margin, since winter fog can delay it.

     To eat

     Bedai with aloo sabzi, a fried bread with spiced potatoes, a classic Agra snack.

     Photos
5. Day 5 · Fri 28 Jan

   A minaret and a lotus

   The south of the city on the last day: the tallest brick minaret in the world, and then a lotus-shaped house of worship.

   • Qutub Minar2 h

     A 72.5-metre brick minaret, the tallest in the world, begun by Qutb ud-Din Aibak and finished by Iltutmish. Firuz Shah Tughlaq rebuilt its top. It was listed by UNESCO in 1993.

     What to see

     • The fluted tower and its inscriptions
     • The Iron Pillar, with an inscription from about the 4th century
     • The ruins of the Quwwat-ul-Islam mosque

     Time

     About two hours.

     Tip

     The tower has been closed to climbers since 1981, so you look at it from the ground. Go in the morning, when the light on the stone is best.

     To eat

     Chaat, a tangy street snack of crisp pastry, potato and yoghurt.

     Photos
   • Lotus Temple1.5 h

     The Bahá’í House of Worship, designed by Fariborz Sahba and dedicated in 1986. Twenty-seven white marble petals in rings of nine form the shape of a lotus.

     What to see

     • The marble petals from the gardens
     • The quiet prayer hall
     • The pools around the building

     Time

     About an hour and a half.

     Tip

     Anyone may enter, whatever their religion. It is a place of silence, so switch off your phone, and plan to leave your shoes at the door.

     To eat

     Kulfi, dense Indian ice cream, to end the trip.

     Photos

Typical weather for these dates, not a forecast: the average of 2016–2025, with data from Open-Meteo.com (ERA5). The chance of rain is an estimate.