Two siblings and one week of thin air in

Cusco.

Cusco · Sacred Valley · Machu Picchu

We arrive on Monday, 21 June 2027

229days
21hours
10minutes
17seconds

The reason we’re here

24 June 2027

Inti Raymi

Qorikancha, Plaza de Armas and Sacsayhuamán, Cusco

The festival of the sun, staged by the city of Cusco in three places. It starts at the Qorikancha, goes on to the Plaza de Armas, and the main ceremony takes place at Sacsayhuamán, with the report on the four suyos and rites of chicha and sacred fire. The modern version dates from 1944.

Every year on 24 June. Source ↗

The plan(oxygen not included)

Six days: Cusco, the Sacred Valley, Machu Picchu and the festival of the sun.

Where we sleep

4 nights

Base in Cusco

Centro Histórico, Cusco

1 night

Base in Machu Picchu Pueblo

Machu Picchu Pueblo

  1. Day 1 · Mon 21 Jun

    Breathe in, slowly

    Nothing planned but the main square and the cathedral. At 3,400 metres, a flat walk counts as sport.

    • Plaza de Armas1 h

      The heart of Cusco, once the Inca ceremonial square of Auqaypata and now ringed by colonial arcades and churches.

      What to see

      • The cathedral on the northeast side
      • The Jesuit church of La Compañía
      • The arcades and balconies
      Time
      An hour, or until you feel dizzy.
      Tip
      On 24 June the plaza has no seats or tickets, and people watch from its edges and the streets that lead in. In 2024 more than 20,000 did, so arrive early to hold a place.
      To eat
      A mate de coca, coca-leaf tea, the standard remedy for the altitude.
    • Cusco Cathedral1 h

      Built between 1559 and 1654 in the northeast corner of the Plaza de Armas, on the site of the Inca palace of Viracocha.

      What to see

      • The stone front and its towers
      • The image of the Lord of the Earthquakes
      • Colonial paintings of the Cusco school
      Time
      An hour.
      Tip
      Take it slowly: at 3,400 metres even a flat walk tires you on the first day. Sit on a pew for a few minutes, and keep your voice down.
      To eat
      Hot chocolate and a sweet bread roll in a café under the arcades.
  2. Day 2 · Tue 22 Jun

    Down to the valley

    The ruins and market of Pisac in the morning, then Ollantaytambo and the evening train. The valley is lower than Cusco, so our lungs say thank you.

    • Pisac4 h

      An Inca complex on a ridge above the town, built from about 1440, with farming terraces and wide views of the valley. The village below holds a market.

      What to see

      • The farming terraces
      • The ruins along the ridge
      • The market in the town below
      Time
      Four hours with the market.
      Tip
      Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday are market days, and Sunday is the largest. Do the ruins first, while it is cool, and the market afterwards.
      To eat
      Cheese or beef empanadas baked in the town’s clay ovens.
    • Ollantaytambo3 h

      An Inca town with some of the oldest continuously occupied homes in South America, a hillside of terraces above it, and the station for trains to Machu Picchu. It sits at about 2,800 metres.

      What to see

      • The terraces of Temple Hill
      • The Wall of the Six Monoliths
      • The stone streets of the old town
      Time
      Three hours before the train.
      Tip
      Book the train a long way ahead for the nights around Inti Raymi, and be at the station early: the ticket must match your passport.
      To eat
      Fried trout from the valley, with rice and potatoes.
  3. Day 3 · Wed 23 Jun

    Machu Picchu o’clock

    Up to the citadel for the morning, then a soak in the hot springs and the train back to Cusco, which is a long way round for a bath.

    • Machu PicchuMorning

      The Inca estate built around 1450, probably for the emperor Pachacuti, on a ridge at 2,430 metres. It was abandoned in the 1500s and became widely known after 1911.

      What to see

      • The Intihuatana ritual stone
      • The Temple of the Sun
      • The Sacred Plaza and the Temple of the Three Windows
      Time
      A morning of about three hours.
      Tip
      Tickets are timed, tied to a circuit and non-refundable, and the official platform is tuboleto.cultura.pe. June is high season, with up to 5,600 visitors a day, so book as soon as they open.
      To eat
      Quinoa soup in town after the visit.
    • Machu Picchu Pueblo hot springs1 h 30

      The hot springs that gave Aguas Calientes its name, at the end of Avenida Pachacútec, which runs up from the main square.

      What to see

      • The hot baths
      • The walk along Avenida Pachacútec
      • The river below the town
      Time
      An hour and a half.
      Tip
      Bring a swimsuit and a towel, and go only if the train leaves you a full hour of margin. Hot water after the climb is lovely; missing the train is not.
      To eat
      Chicha morada, the purple-corn drink, served cold.
  4. Day 4 · Thu 24 Jun

    The sun festival

    Inti Raymi in three acts: the Qorikancha in the morning, the Plaza de Armas, and Sacsayhuamán for the main ceremony. Seats sell out, so the plan is the free areas if we have none.

    • Qorikancha2 h

      The most important temple of the Inca Empire, dedicated to the sun, with the colonial convent of Santo Domingo built on its foundations. On 24 June it is the first stage of Inti Raymi.

      What to see

      • The Inca walls of fitted stone
      • The convent of Santo Domingo above them
      • The esplanade where Inti Raymi begins
      Time
      In 2024 the ceremony started at 9:00 and lasted about an hour.
      Tip
      In 2024, 4,100 seats were offered for this stage and sold out, and about 5,000 more people watched from the streets between Avenida El Sol and Calle Arrayanniyoq. Buy seats months ahead, or arrive hours early to stand.
      To eat
      Hot chocolate and an empanada once the ceremony is over.
    • Plaza de ArmasGuide on day 1 →
    • SacsayhuamánAfternoon

      An Inca fortress on a hill above Cusco, at 3,701 metres, built of enormous stones fitted without mortar. It is where the central ceremony of Inti Raymi takes place.

      What to see

      • The giant stones of the walls
      • The esplanade where the ceremony is staged
      • The view of Cusco below
      Time
      The afternoon, with a good margin.
      Tip
      In 2024, 3,750 seats sold out the weekend before, and an official put the crowd on the esplanade and around the bastions at over 150,000. The site is about 2 km from the Plaza de Armas: walk up hours early, slowly.
      To eat
      Choclo con queso, big-kernel Andean corn with fresh cheese.
  5. Day 5 · Fri 25 Jun

    Terraces and salt

    A quiet day on the high plateau: the circular terraces of Moray and the salt pans of Maras.

    • Moray1 h 30

      Inca terraces laid out in concentric circles inside a deep hollow, thought to have been used to test crops at different altitudes.

      What to see

      • The concentric terraces
      • The view from the rim
      • The open plateau around
      Time
      An hour and a half.
      Tip
      It sits on a high plateau that is colder and windier than the valley floor, so bring a jacket even in dry-season sun. Moray and Maras are on the same road, so hire one driver for both.
      To eat
      Cancha, toasted corn kernels, as a snack.
    • Maras salt pans1 h 30

      Thousands of small salt pools stepped down a hillside, fed by a salty spring and worked by hand for centuries.

      What to see

      • The white terraces of pools
      • The channels that bring the salty water
      • The view from the top of the hill
      Time
      An hour and a half.
      Tip
      The paths between pools are narrow and slippery when wet, and the white salt throws back the sun. Wear sunglasses and a hat.
      To eat
      Buy a small bag of the salt and try it on boiled potatoes, an Andean staple.
  6. Day 6 · Sat 26 Jun

    Last wander, last juice

    San Blas for one more climb we pretend is easy, and the market for the last juice, before the flight home.

    • San Blas2 h

      A steep district of whitewashed houses and narrow cobbled streets above the Plaza de Armas, where many craftspeople have their workshops.

      What to see

      • The Plazoleta de San Blas
      • The workshops of potters and carvers
      • The view from the top of the hill
      Time
      Two hours.
      Tip
      The streets are steep and the cobbles uneven, with altitude on top. Stop often and walk up as slowly as a local does.
      To eat
      A Peruvian highland coffee in a café on the plazoleta.
    • San Pedro Market1 h 30

      The city’s main covered market, a busy hall of fruit, cheese, bread, herbs and juice counters.

      What to see

      • Pyramids of fruit
      • The juice counters
      • The stalls of Andean potatoes and herbs
      Time
      An hour and a half.
      Tip
      Keep your bag in front of you, pay with small notes and ask before photographing a stallholder.
      To eat
      A fresh fruit juice and a bread roll with fresh cheese for the last breakfast.

Uphill both ways

Every stop and our bases.

  1. Centro Histórico, Cusco
  2. Machu Picchu Pueblo

Layers weather

What late June is usually like.

Cusco

Trip day 1
Monday21 June
Clear
17° / 4°
1% rain10 km/h wind
Trip day 2
Tuesday22 June
Clear
17° / 4°
0% rain10 km/h wind
Trip day 3
Wednesday23 June
Clear
17° / 4°
0% rain10 km/h wind
Trip day 4
Thursday24 June
Clear
17° / 4°
0% rain11 km/h wind
Trip day 5
Friday25 June
Clear
18° / 5°
0% rain11 km/h wind
Trip day 6
Saturday26 June
Clear
17° / 5°
0% rain11 km/h wind

Typical weather for these dates, not a forecast: the average of 2016–2025, with data from Open-Meteo.com (ERA5). The chance of rain is an estimate.

Before the altitude headache

10 photos from 5 places on our route

Cusco, explained(while you catch your breath)

The festival of the sun

Inti Raymi is held in Cusco on 24 June to honour the sun. Chroniclers say Pachacútec established it in the 15th century.

Banned, then revived

The Spanish banned it as pagan. The modern version was first staged on 24 June 1944 at Sacsayhuamán.

On the route: Day 4, Sacsayhuamán

Three stages

The festival moves from the Qorikancha to the Plaza de Armas and ends at Sacsayhuamán.

On the route: Day 4, the three stages

Seats sell out

In 2024 the 4,100 seats at the Qorikancha and the 3,750 at Sacsayhuamán sold out. The Plaza de Armas has no seats.

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