Cartagena.

Where we sleep

1. Day 1 · Tue 9 Nov

   Arrive and melt

   We land in the heat and walk the old city anyway: the clock tower gate, then the square of the Inquisition.

   • Clock Tower and Plaza de los Coches1 h

     The Baroque clock tower over the main gate of the walled city, built between 1704 and 1738. Through it you reach the Plaza de los Coches and the arcade of sweet sellers.

     What to see

     • The clock tower from the gate
     • The Portal de los Dulces arcade
     • The first evening light on the squares

     Time

     An hour, mostly sweating.

     Tip

     Go through the gate as the light drops, when it cools down and the square fills with locals. Keep your bag in front of you where the crowd is thick.

     To eat

     Cocadas from the arcade, coconut sweets in a dozen colours.

     Photos
   • Plaza de Bolívar and the Inquisition Palace1 h 30

     A shaded park with a statue of Simón Bolívar beside the Palace of the Inquisition, finished in 1770, where the Holy Office worked from 1610.

     What to see

     • The front of the Inquisition Palace
     • The Bolívar statue
     • The balconies of the colonial houses

     Time

     An hour and a half.

     Tip

     Sit in the park for ten minutes before going in; at noon it is one of the few shaded corners of the old centre, and we have earned it.

     To eat

     A fresh lulo or maracuyá juice, two Colombian fruits.

     Photos
2. Day 2 · Wed 10 Nov

   Fort first, hill after

   The big fortress at opening time, before the sun wins, and La Popa in the afternoon for the view.

   • Castillo San Felipe de Barajas2 h

     A triangular fortress on San Lázaro hill, begun in 1639 and enlarged until 1657, to guard the city from land and sea. It is riddled with tunnels, and some of them are open to visitors.

     What to see

     • The batteries and the view of the old city
     • The tunnels open to visitors
     • The ramps up to the top

     Time

     Two hours.

     Tip

     The castle opens every day, so a Wednesday works. Go the moment it opens: there is no shade on the ramps, and by eleven the stone is an oven.

     To eat

     A limonada de coco, lemonade blended with coconut cream, at the bottom of the hill.

     Photos
   • Convento de la Popa1 h 30

     A convent on La Popa, the highest hill of the city, with a small courtyard and a view over the bay and the old city.

     What to see

     • The courtyard of the convent
     • The view over the bay and the old city
     • The chapel

     Time

     An hour and a half, plus the drive.

     Tip

     Go by taxi both ways. The road up is steep and long, and the sun on it in the afternoon is fierce.

     To eat

     Mango biche with salt and lemon, the green-mango snack of the coast.

     Photos
3. Day 3 · Thu 11 Nov

   Independence Day, with floats

   The reason we came. If the programme follows 2025, the Bando parade passes along Avenida Santander on the Thursday before the long weekend, which is today. The city publishes the date in the autumn, so confirm it before you book. In the evening, Getsemaní.

   • Avenida Santander and the BandoMorning

     The seafront avenue where the Independence parade, the Bando, goes by with floats, comparsas and folk groups. In 2025 the route ran about four kilometres.

     What to see

     • Floats and comparsas
     • Drums and gaitas, the traditional flutes
     • The capuchón, the hooded costumes

     Time

     A morning on foot.

     Tip

     In 2025 the walls and bastions were closed to visitors from 7:00 to 20:00 on parade day and the urban beaches were shut too, so keep the day for the parade. Glass containers are banned at events.

     To eat

     Arepa de huevo, a fried corn pocket with an egg inside, from a street stall.

   • GetsemaníEvening

     The district just outside the old walled city, enclosed by its own walls from 1631 and now known for its murals and its lively little plaza. Its cabildo is part of the independence festivities.

     What to see

     • The Plaza de la Trinidad
     • The street murals
     • The Calle del Arsenal

     Time

     An evening.

     Tip

     On festival days Getsemaní has the loudest evenings in the city. Grab a spot in the plaza early, and pack earplugs if your room looks onto it.

     To eat

     Fried fish with patacones, flattened fried plantain.

4. Day 4 · Fri 12 Nov

   Island, if the sea agrees

   A day on the Rosario Islands if the weather allows, and a sunset walk on the walls on the way back.

   • Rosario IslandsAll day

     A group of small coral islands about an hour by boat from the city, inside the Corales del Rosario and San Bernardo national park.

     What to see

     • Snorkelling over the reef
     • The small islands from the boat
     • The ride out of the bay

     Time

     A full day.

     Tip

     In November the sea can be rough and the water cloudy after heavy rain. Decide the night before, and keep the day flexible: boats do stay in port in bad weather.

     To eat

     Fried fish with coconut rice, and ceviche made with lime.

   • The city walls at sunset1 h

     About 11 km of walls built in stages between 1614 and 1796 to protect the city from pirates. A stretch of them is a walkway above the sea.

     What to see

     • The wall walkway above the sea
     • The bastions and their cannons
     • The sunset over the Caribbean

     Time

     An hour.

     Tip

     Walk the seaward stretch about an hour before sunset. The sea breeze is the best air-conditioning you will find in November.

     To eat

     A cold coconut water, drunk straight from the coconut.

     Photos
5. Day 5 · Sat 13 Nov

   A statue, a saint, then home

   One last square with a Botero sculpture and a church that is a serious place, before the flight home.

   • Plaza de Santo Domingo1 h

     A lively square named after its church of Santo Domingo, and home to a Botero sculpture, a big bronze woman known as Gertrudis.

     What to see

     • The Botero sculpture
     • The front of the Santo Domingo church
     • The terraces of the square

     Time

     An hour.

     Tip

     Come before ten if you want a photo of the sculpture without a crowd. The square fills up as the tour groups arrive.

     To eat

     A cup of fresh tropical fruit with lime.

   • San Pedro Claver church and convent1 h 30

     A church and convent in honour of Saint Peter Claver, the Jesuit who spent his life helping the enslaved Africans arriving at the port. A museum sits inside the convent.

     What to see

     • The church front
     • The cloister of the convent
     • The story of Saint Peter Claver

     Time

     An hour and a half.

     Tip

     The museum deals with slavery as well as religion, so give it time and quiet. Cover your shoulders for the church.

     To eat

     A tinto, Colombian black coffee, in the square outside.

     Photos

Typical weather for these dates, not a forecast: the average of 2016–2025, with data from Open-Meteo.com (ERA5). The chance of rain is an estimate.