Bay of Islands.

Where we sleep

1. Day 1 · Thu 4 Feb

   A ferry across the bay

   We settle in at Paihia, then take the ferry across to Russell, a small town with a lot of history and a hill with a view.

   • Paihia waterfront1 h

     A small town on the water where the missionary Henry Williams settled in 1823. Today it is where the ferries and boat trips leave from.

     What to see

     • The wharf and the boats
     • The beach along the waterfront
     • The ferry to Russell

     Time

     An hour, mostly looking at boats.

     Tip

     Book Sunday’s Hole in the Rock cruise at the wharf today. If the sea is rough the boat stays in the bay instead of going through the rock.

     To eat

     Hokey pokey ice cream, vanilla with crunchy honeycomb toffee, a New Zealand favourite.

     Photos
   • Christ Church, Russell45 min

     Built in 1835, it is New Zealand’s oldest surviving church. The holes in its wall come from muskets fired during the fighting of 1845.

     What to see

     • The musket-ball holes in the wall
     • The old churchyard
     • The small wooden church itself

     Time

     Forty-five minutes.

     Tip

     It is still a church and a graveyard, so keep the children walking quietly between the headstones.

     To eat

     A scone and a hot chocolate at a café on The Strand.

     Photos
   • Flagstaff Hill1 h

     The hill above Russell where a flagpole was cut down again and again in 1844-45, the start of the Flagstaff War. The reward is a wide view over the bay.

     What to see

     • The flagpole at the top
     • The view over the bay
     • The town of Russell below

     Time

     About an hour, up and down.

     Tip

     It is a steady climb from the waterfront, so take water and put the children in shoes, not flip-flops.

     To eat

     An ice cream from The Strand on the way down.

2. Day 2 · Fri 5 Feb

   The oldest buildings

   A drive inland to Kerikeri, to see New Zealand’s oldest buildings by the water and a tall waterfall.

   • Kerikeri Basin2 h

     A small inlet where a mission station was founded in 1819. It has New Zealand’s oldest standing building, Kemp House of 1821-22, and its oldest stone one, the Stone Store of the early 1830s.

     What to see

     • Kemp House
     • The Stone Store
     • The water of the basin

     Time

     About two hours.

     Tip

     The shop in the Stone Store is free to enter, so start there with the children and decide about the house afterwards.

     To eat

     Kerikeri is orchard country, with citrus planted here since 1819, so look for roadside fruit stalls.

     Photos
   • Rainbow Falls1 h

     A tall waterfall just outside Kerikeri, known in Māori as Waianiwaniwa. It is called Rainbow Falls for the colours in its spray on sunny days.

     What to see

     • The falls from the viewpoint
     • The bush around the path
     • The spray catching the light

     Time

     An hour with the walk.

     Tip

     Stay behind the barriers and keep the children on the path, since wet rock near the water is slippery.

     To eat

     A picnic of local fruit and sandwiches in the car park shade.

     Photos
3. Day 3 · Sat 6 Feb

   Waitangi Day

   A very early start for the dawn service at Waitangi, then a free festival that goes all day. The museum buildings are closed today, so we return for them on Sunday.

   • Te Whare Rūnanga, dawn serviceEarly morning

     The carved meeting house, opened on 6 February 1940, where Waitangi Day begins with a dawn service at 5am.

     What to see

     • The dawn service at 5am
     • The carvings of the meeting house
     • First light over the bay

     Time

     A couple of hours, before breakfast.

     Tip

     This is a ceremony, not a show, so follow the hosts on where to stand and sit, and wear layers for the pre-dawn cool.

     To eat

     Breakfast at the festival stalls afterwards.

   • Waitangi Day FestivalAll day

     A free festival on the Treaty Grounds, with entertainment on three stages, more than 150 market stalls and children’s activities.

     What to see

     • The stages on the Upper Treaty Grounds
     • The market stalls
     • The children’s activities

     Time

     Stay as long as the children can.

     Tip

     The museum buildings are closed on 6 February, so don’t plan to go in today. We come back on Sunday for them.

     To eat

     Food from the market stalls; take sun hats and plenty of water.

     Photos
4. Day 4 · Sun 7 Feb

   Out on the water

   A morning boat trip to the rock with the hole in it, then a slow afternoon at the Treaty Grounds, now that the buildings are open again.

   • Hole in the Rock cruiseMorning

     A boat trip across the bay to a rock with a natural arch at the outer edge. When the sea allows, the boat passes through the arch.

     What to see

     • The islands of the bay from the water
     • The arch in the rock
     • Dolphins, if you are lucky

     Time

     A morning on the water.

     Tip

     Passing through the rock depends on the sea, and dolphins are common but never guaranteed. Bring a waterproof jacket.

     To eat

     Snacks and water for the boat, then fish and chips on the wharf back in Paihia.

   • Waitangi Treaty Grounds3 h

     Where the Treaty of Waitangi was first signed, on 6 February 1840. The site has the Treaty House, the Te Kōngahu museum, which opened in 2016, and the carved meeting house.

     What to see

     • The Treaty House
     • Te Kōngahu Museum of Waitangi
     • The ceremonial waka Ngātokimatawhaorua

     Time

     About three hours.

     Tip

     Admission includes a guided tour and a cultural performance. The buildings are closed on Waitangi Day itself, so today is the day for them.

     To eat

     A coffee from the cart on the grounds, and a lemonade for the children.

     Photos
5. Day 5 · Mon 8 Feb

   A waterfall and a toilet

   A last short stop at the falls near Paihia, then a famous public toilet on the road south. Monday is a public holiday for many people, so expect traffic.

   • Haruru Falls45 min

     A wide waterfall on the Waitangi River, about 3 km west of Paihia, 5 metres high and 15 metres wide.

     What to see

     • The wide curtain of water
     • The river above and below the falls
     • The viewing area

     Time

     Forty-five minutes.

     Tip

     After heavy rain the river runs brown and strong, so stay at the viewing area and keep the children away from the edge.

     To eat

     Pack a snack, then lunch on the road south.

   • Kawakawa public toilets30 min

     A small town on the road south, known for its public toilets, redesigned in the late 1990s in the style of the artist Hundertwasser, with colourful tiles and a grass roof.

     What to see

     • The colourful tiled walls
     • The curved lines and uneven floor
     • The roof with plants

     Time

     Half an hour.

     Tip

     They are free to use and still work as toilets, so it is a useful stop with children before the drive.

     To eat

     A meat pie from a bakery on the main street for the road.

     Photos

Typical weather for these dates, not a forecast: the average of 2016–2025, with data from Open-Meteo.com (ERA5). The chance of rain is an estimate.