Six slow days in

Bali.

Sanur · Uluwatu · Ubud

We arrive on Sunday, 15 August 2027

284days
08hours
10minutes
18seconds

The reason we’re here

Tuesday 17 August 2027

Indonesian Independence Day

Niti Mandala Field, Renon, Denpasar

A public holiday for the proclamation of independence in 1945. In the morning there are flag-raising ceremonies; in Bali the provincial one has been held at Niti Mandala in Renon. In the afternoon neighbourhoods hold street contests, and houses and roads are hung with red and white.

Every year on 17 August. Source ↗

11–21 August 2027

Galungan and Kuningan

All over Bali

Balinese Hindus celebrate the victory of good over evil and the visit of the ancestors’ spirits, who return to heaven on Kuningan, ten days later. Families set up penjor poles and prepare offerings, and the celebrations continue for around two weeks.

Every 210 days, by the Balinese Pawukon calendar, so twice in some years. The date changes each year by a set rule: check it before you travel. Source ↗

The plan(with time to linger)

Six days: the southern cliffs, a flag-raising in Denpasar on Independence Day, and the rice terraces and temples around Ubud.

Where we sleep

2 nights

Base in Sanur

Sanur, Denpasar

3 nights

Base in Ubud

Ubud, Gianyar

  1. Day 1 · Sun 15 Aug

    Sunset on the cliff

    We head south to the Bukit peninsula: a giant statue of Vishnu in the morning, and a temple on a cliff above the sea as the day ends.

    • Garuda Wisnu Kencana2 h

      A cultural park built around a statue of Vishnu riding the bird Garuda, 75 metres tall, and 121 metres with its base. It was finished in 2018.

      What to see

      • The statue of Vishnu on Garuda
      • The Lotus Pond and its carved limestone pillars
      • The giant Garuda head in Garuda Plaza
      Time
      About two hours.
      Tip
      There is little shade between the viewpoints, so go before noon and keep the long lunch for after the park.
      To eat
      Nasi campur, steamed rice with small portions of meat, vegetables and sambal.
    • Uluwatu Temple2.5 h

      A sea temple, dating from the 11th century, on a cliff about 70 metres above the water. A kecak dance based on the Ramayana is held on the cliffside daily at 6 pm.

      What to see

      • The cliff-edge walkways
      • The kecak dance at sunset
      • The long-tailed macaques along the path
      Time
      Arrive about an hour before the dance.
      Tip
      The macaques steal sunglasses, hats and flip-flops, so leave them in the bag. A sarong is required, and the dance seats fill early.
      To eat
      Grilled fish with sambal matah, Bali’s raw shallot and lemongrass relish, in Jimbaran afterwards.
  2. Day 2 · Mon 16 Aug

    A water temple and a sea temple

    A royal temple among ponds in the morning, then the west coast, where another temple stands on a rock in the surf.

    • Taman Ayun Temple1.5 h

      The royal family temple of the kingdom of Mengwi, built in 1634 and surrounded by a wide moat. Since 2012 it has been part of the UNESCO-listed Subak cultural landscape of Bali.

      What to see

      • The moat and the bridge on the south side
      • The meru towers with their stacked roofs
      • The gardens and ponds
      Time
      About an hour and a half.
      Tip
      The inner sanctuary is for worshippers, so you look at it from the outside. Go in the morning, when it is cool and the tour groups have not arrived.
      To eat
      Babi guling, roast suckling pig with rice, a Balinese celebration dish.
    • Tanah Lot2 h

      A temple on a rock just off the coast, one of Bali’s seven main sea temples and traditionally credited to the 16th-century priest Nirartha. It is dedicated to the sea god.

      What to see

      • The temple on its rock
      • The cliffs along the coast
      • The sky at sunset
      Time
      Two hours, with the walk down.
      Tip
      The rock can be reached on foot only at low tide, and only worshippers enter the temple. Come early to find a viewpoint, as the sunset crowd is large.
      To eat
      Pisang goreng, fried banana, or jaje Bali, small Balinese rice-flour sweets.
  3. Day 3 · Tue 17 Aug

    Merdeka morning

    It is Independence Day. We watch the flag-raising at Renon, in Denpasar, then spend the afternoon by the sea in Sanur before the road up to Ubud.

    • Niti Mandala Field, RenonMorning

      The big field in Denpasar where the Bali provincial government has held its Independence Day ceremony in recent years. In 2026 the governor led it, the flag was raised by a youth corps, and some foreign tourists watched.

      What to see

      • The raising of the red-and-white flag
      • The students and uniformed groups on parade
      • The performances after the ceremony
      Time
      A morning, with the journey.
      Tip
      Ask your hotel for the start time and the road closures on the day before, and go early. Wear neat, modest clothes and stand back from the lines of uniformed groups.
      To eat
      Nasi jinggo, a small wrapped portion of rice with a little meat and sambal, from a morning stall.
    • Sanur Beach2 h

      A long beach on the east coast of Bali, a short drive east of Denpasar, with a view north to Mount Agung on clear days. It is a calm place for a slow afternoon.

      What to see

      • Mount Agung in the distance
      • The fishing boats on the sand
      • Neighbourhood contests, if you pass one
      Time
      Two hours, no hurry.
      Tip
      On 17 August, neighbourhoods hold street games in the afternoon, so stay a while to watch. Leave Sanur for Ubud before the evening traffic builds.
      To eat
      Es kelapa muda, young coconut water drunk straight from the shell.
  4. Day 4 · Wed 18 Aug

    Along the ridge

    An early walk on a ridge between two rivers, then the old royal palace and the market in the middle of Ubud.

    • Campuhan Ridge Walk1.5 h

      A paved path of about two kilometres along a ridge in Campuhan, whose name means where two rivers meet. It is a favourite spot for walking at sunrise or sunset.

      What to see

      • The tall grass on the ridge
      • The two river valleys either side
      • The first light over the hills
      Time
      About an hour and a half.
      Tip
      Start soon after sunrise, when the air is cool and the path is almost empty. By mid-morning it is hot, with no shade.
      To eat
      A strong Balinese coffee and a plate of tropical fruit.
    • Ubud Palace and market2 h

      Puri Saren Agung, the old royal palace, stands at the main crossroads of Ubud, and parts of it are still a family home. Dance performances and ceremonies take place in its courtyard.

      What to see

      • The carved gateways and stone figures
      • A dance in the courtyard in the evening
      • The market across the road
      Time
      Two hours, plus the evening dance.
      Tip
      Dance performances are in the evening, so book a seat that day if you want one. Keep the market for the morning, before the heat.
      To eat
      Bebek betutu, duck slow-cooked in spices and banana leaf, a classic of Ubud.
  5. Day 5 · Thu 19 Aug

    Terraces and holy water

    Green rice terraces in the cool of the morning, then a spring temple where Balinese families come to pray.

    • Tegalalang rice terraces1.5 h

      Rice terraces cut into a valley slope north of Ubud and watered by the subak system, the Balinese way of sharing irrigation water among farmers.

      What to see

      • The terraces from the road above
      • The small paths between the paddies
      • The palms along the valley
      Time
      About an hour and a half.
      Tip
      Go early, before the tour buses and the heat, and watch your step on the narrow paths between the paddies. These are working fields.
      To eat
      Nasi goreng, fried rice with an egg, for a simple breakfast above the valley.
    • Tirta Empul1.5 h

      A temple built around a holy spring, said to have been founded in 962. Balinese Hindus bathe in its pools in a purification ritual called melukat.

      What to see

      • The pools and the spouts of holy water
      • Families praying in the courtyard
      • The temple’s carved gates
      Time
      About an hour and a half.
      Tip
      Wear a sarong. This week is between Galungan and Kuningan, so many families come to pray: keep your voice low and let them go first.
      To eat
      Tipat cantok, rice cake and vegetables in peanut sauce.
  6. Day 6 · Fri 20 Aug

    A last walk in the forest

    A quiet morning in the monkey forest, with its old temples among the trees, before the journey home.

    • Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary1.5 h

      A small forest in Padangtegal that holds three Hindu temples dating from around 1350. About 1,260 crab-eating macaques lived here in 2023, in five groups.

      What to see

      • The temples among the trees
      • The macaques at rest in the shade
      • The old stone bridges and statues
      Time
      About an hour and a half.
      Tip
      Visitors may not feed the monkeys, and staff advise not to touch them. Keep sunglasses, bottles and anything loose zipped away.
      To eat
      Gado-gado, steamed vegetables with peanut sauce, near the entrance.

Where we’ll be

Every stop and our two bases.

  1. Sanur, Denpasar
  2. Ubud, Gianyar

A warm evening

What mid-August is usually like.

Sanur

Trip day 1
Sunday15 August
Mostly clear
28° / 23°
10% rain19 km/h wind
Trip day 2
Monday16 August
Mostly clear
28° / 23°
11% rain20 km/h wind
Trip day 3
Tuesday17 August
Mostly clear
28° / 23°
9% rain20 km/h wind
Trip day 4
Wednesday18 August
Mostly clear
28° / 23°
9% rain20 km/h wind
Trip day 5
Thursday19 August
Mostly clear
28° / 23°
9% rain20 km/h wind
Trip day 6
Friday20 August
Mostly clear
28° / 23°
7% rain21 km/h wind

Typical weather for these dates, not a forecast: the average of 2016–2025, with data from Open-Meteo.com (ERA5). The chance of rain is an estimate.

Before we go

18 photos from 9 places on our route

Bali, explained(for the long drives)

Declared in 1945

17 August marks the proclamation of independence from the Netherlands in 1945. It has been a public holiday since a decree in 1946.

Red and white everywhere

Flying the flag is expected on the day. Streets fill with red-and-white pennants, and neighbourhood gateways are decorated in the same colours.

Games in the street

Neighbourhoods hold lomba, contests such as sack races, krupuk-eating races, tug of war and climbing a greased pole, usually in the afternoon.

On the route: Day 3, Sanur

The flag in Renon

Bali’s provincial ceremony was held at Niti Mandala in Renon in 2024, 2025 and 2026.

On the route: Day 3, Renon

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